Dharamsala stands on a spur of the Dhauladhar range. After annexing the district, the British built their headquarters with an accommodation called dharamsala (inn), meant for people who wanted to meet the Raja to stay overnight.

The town built itself around the Army cantonment and came to be known as Dharamsala.

Located northwest of New Delhi, Dharamsala offers a relaxing and spiritual experience of the Himalayas. Upper Dharamsala, with its oak, cedar, pine, and other trees, offers lovely walks and trekking adventures.

The town is actually made up of three mini-towns, one above the other: the Kaccheri area comprising the district courts, Kotwali Bazar or middle Dharamsala, and Mcleod Ganj.

Getting there:
By road:

Driving down from Delhi will be a tiring 15-18 hours, but if you’re hell-bent on doing it, take a break at Shimla, 370 km from Delhi and a five-six hour drive.

Spend the night there, and start the five-hour drive in the wee hours next morning to Dharamsala, 280 km from there. Or take an overnight bus from Delhi to Dharamsala.

By air:

Dharamsala can be approached by air from Delhi. The nearest airport is 13 km away at Goggla. From Goggla, you can take a coach or hire a cab.

By rail:The best way to reach Dharamsala is by rail. Take a train till Pathankot, which is the nearest railhead – 90 km away.

From there, hire a cab which will take you to Dharamsala in 3 hours.

For tours, you have two options - Dharamsala to Badrinath and back via Palampur-Chamundadri or Dharamsala to Jwalaji-Chint-Purni and back via Kangra.

For details, contact the Himachal Pradesh Tourism Development Corporation (HPTDC), Tourist Information Office at Kotwali Bazaar, Dharamsala. Tel:

01892-3107.

Accomodation:

HPTDC has lots of hotels in Dharamsala – choose the hotels according to your schedule and budget.

If you are in for some trekking, stay at Bhagsu at Mcleod Ganj, Upper Dharamsala. For bookings, call: 01892-21091-92.

For sightseeing and nature walks, stay at the Dhauladhar Kotwali Bazar, Downtown (lower Dharamsala); Tel: 01892-24926-27. Fax: 01892-24212. For those on a shoestring budget, you can book at Yatri Niwas near District Hospital, Lower Dharamsala; Tel: 01892-23163.

Things to do:

Reach Dharamsala, dump your bags at the hotel, and head for Mcleod Ganj.

This world-famous destination is home to the Dalai Lama. Here, you will find bustling bazaars – with great deals on carpets and handicrafts.

Have a Tibetan lunch here, and don’t forget to spin the giant prayer wheel on the main street. Apart from the monastery, you will find the school of Tibetan Studies which houses rare manuscripts, and a handicrafts centre – where you can shop for traditional Tibetan curios.

On day two, check out the St John Church with its stained glass windows and a memorial to Lord Elgin – this one is a must-see.

At lunch time, head for Dal Lake, a picnic spot – you can carry a packed lunch and have it while boating and then head for a nature walk. If you aren’t in a mood for working out, you can head for the Bhagsunath shrine 11 km away.

Here, you will find a pretty waterfall. In the evening, visit Trilokpur, a natural cave temple dedicated to Lord Shiva. Worth looking at are the stalactite and stalagmite formations.

On day three, start early with a visit to the Chamunda Devi Temple – it offers a great view of the Himalayas.

Then head for Nurpur, a ruined fort noted for its fine woodcarving. Nurpur, named after Mughal princess Noorjehan, is also famous for its fine pashmina shawls.

Head for the station and get back to the grind of city-life.

If all this is way too cultural for your liking, get your backpack and go for a wilderness trek. Popular trekking routes include Dharamsala-Dharamkot-Triund-Dharamsala (34 km), Dharamsala-Khanyara-Aghanjar-Mahadev-Dharamsala (16 km), Dharamsala-Chamunda-Dadh-Dharamsala (29 km), Dharamsala-Bhagsunath-Dharamsala (22 km), and Dharamsala-Kareri Lake-Dharamsala (35 km).

Overnight camping is allowed, but it is advisable to take a local guide along with you.

Best time to visit:

April to June and September to November.

The essentials:

In summer, carry light woollens like sweatshirts and sleeveless sweaters.

In winters, you better take thermals and heavy woollens like over-coats and jackets.

Sturdy trekking shoes are a must. You will also require sunglasses, moisturising cream, band-aid, antiseptic lotion, a camera, and cash.

If you intend to go camping in the woods, do carry a reliable backpack, tissue paper, a sleeping bag, tinned food, and a big bar of chocolate to beat the depletion-of-energy-bouts. Get ready to be rough and tough.

By Amrita Das